Side flashing
Step pieces up both sides of the chimney are replaced nailed to the deck, not the brick.
Most leaks around a chimney in Closter come from the flashing, and a roofer can fix them with new step and counter flashing set into the brick instead of tar, with a cricket behind wide chimneys to keep water from piling up. Dial (551) 395-0646 to talk with a local roofer about the chimney leak.
The joint between a chimney and the roof is one of the most leak-prone spots on any house. Masonry and wood framing expand, shrink and settle at different rates, which is why chimney flashing is built in two parts that can slide past each other. Tar and caulk alone cannot handle that movement for long.
A correctly flashed chimney uses a system, not a single piece. The front gets an apron, the sides get step flashing, the back gets a pan or cricket, and counter flashing tucked into the brick seals the top of it all. The counter flashing is where shortcuts usually show up: instead of being cut into the mortar, it is glued to the face of the brick.
Before replacing flashing, it helps to know whether the chimney above the roof is letting water in. A cracked crown, a missing cap, porous brick or failed mortar joints can soak the masonry, and the water then runs down inside the chimney and shows up exactly where a flashing leak would. A careful look covers both the flashing and the visible masonry above it.
Chimney Flashing Repair is often paired with flashing repair and roof leak repair, depending on the cause.
Dealing with this in Closter, NJ right now? Call (551) 395-0646 and describe the problem to a roofer who works in Closter.
Call nowChimney flashing is rebuilt from the bottom up, like the rest of a roof.
The roofer looks at the flashing on all four sides, the mortar joints, the crown and cap and the attic framing around the chimney. If the masonry is clearly the source, the roofer will say so.
Old flashing and sealant come off, and the shingles next to the brick are lifted or removed. Rotted sheathing next to the chimney is cut out and renewed.
After a self-adhered membrane wraps the base of the chimney, the apron goes on the downhill face and step pieces are woven up both sides with new shingles. Each step piece laps the one below it.
On the uphill side, a back pan or saddle is fitted, and on wider chimneys a cricket is framed to split the water around it. Without one, a wide chimney acts like a dam.
A groove is cut into the mortar, and the counter flashing is set into it, either in one piece or stepped to follow the slope. That two-part design lets the chimney and roof move without tearing the seal.
Step pieces up both sides of the chimney are replaced nailed to the deck, not the brick.
New counter flashing is let into the brick instead of caulked to the face.
Rotted decking around the chimney opening is replaced while the area is open.
A saddle diverts water around the uphill side so water cannot pond against the brick.
The base flashing on the front is renewed lapped over the shingles below.
Replacing the flashing outright is the better choice when patches keep failing or the metal has corroded. When the basic design is wrong, repairs only delay the next leak. It is also the right moment to add a cricket or back pan.
The metal choice matters around masonry. Copper is a long-lasting choice for counter flashing, while aluminum needs protection from contact with lime in the mortar. Ask which metal the roofer plans to use and why.
Chimney leak repair starts by finding out whether water comes through the flashing or through the chimney itself. Flashing leaks show up during rain at the roof line, often worse on the uphill side, while masonry leaks can appear on any side and may continue for a while after the rain stops as soaked brick drains. A careful water test, one side at a time, can tell the two apart.
When water comes through the chimney, the repair moves up above the roof. Crown cracks, open joints and missing caps are repaired by a mason, and a breathable sealer can cut down how much water the brick absorbs. A roofer can point out these problems while checking the flashing.
In Closter, many chimney flashing problems show up on homes with wide brick chimneys and no cricket behind them. Across Closter and nearby communities including Demarest, Norwood, Harrington Park and Haworth, the chimney type decides the fix: masonry needs counter flashing cut into the brick, and a framed chase needs step flashing behind the siding, so expect the roofer to ask which type is on your house.
Need chimney flashing repair around Closter? Call (551) 395-0646 for a Closter roofer who serves the towns around it too.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, which is how ice dams form and back water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. Most homeowners in Closter, NJ have the roof checked in the fall and again after the snow melts.
Small roof problems caught early usually stay small repairs.
Roofers in Closter know the roof types and weather wear common in local homes.
Ask the roofer about the cause, the options and the estimate before work starts.
More questions? Call (551) 395-0646
Flashing repairs at the joints where most roof leaks start, before hidden rot spreads into walls and decking.
Learn moreStopping water at the pipe boots, flashing, valleys and nail holes where roofs actually leak, so the stain on the ceiling stops growing.
Learn morePinpointing where water actually enters a roof, even when the stain is far away, before anyone tears into the wrong part of the roof.
Learn moreShingle by shingle repairs that keep a sound roof in service, without tearing off the whole roof.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall (551) 395-0646 for a local roofer in Closter and nearby towns.